The way of the hydraulic is there is no adjustment other then the fork ball height or push rod length. How could the push rod pull the fork back enough so the throw out bearing isn't touching the fingers? It's a push rod, not a pull back out and no touch rod. Once again I had to make my push rod longer. Show me the pic where your car is running and you throw out bearing ain't touching the pressure plate fingers and then I will believe you.Īlso the push rod would fall out if it has no tension on it if you didn't know that also. Maybe with a clutch cable and spring but not the stock volvo hydraulic with the external slave. Not sure why anybody would think you can pull it all the way back and away from where it will be touching. Once again the throw out bearing is always touching slightly. Hope these make sense in the way i wrote them and help someone. If it does not disengage you need a longer slave cylinder pushrod so back to step 1.
TTV FLYWHEEL INSTALL
If you got more you are forcing the diaphragm spring too hard so you may break it (so you need to install a pedal stop). Mark the position that the wheels are released, and then you gotta have 1/4 inch more to the pedal stop. In order to check the whole setup it you gotta lift the rear wheels off the ground (engine off), and have a person try to spin the rear wheels while depressing the clutch pedal.
Also it is not correct the pushrod to be at the middle of its travel when the clutch pedal is not pressed because it either won't be able to expand correctly to press the spring diaphragm far enough to disengage the clutch disk and the pushrod may pop out leaking fluids (so you need to fabricate a longer pushrod taking care rule 3 again). If rule 3 is not the case (you can't insert the c clip pushing the slave cylinder with your hands) you have to shorten the slave cylinder pushrod in order to achieve it if you got everything else correct. Of course hydro setups always want to expand the slave cylinder with little force so there is no way for the bearing not to touch the diaphragm spring (as said above correctly imo).
If it is you can do nothing else than shortening the tube.ģ) When the slave cylinder is installed after checking 1 and 2, ideally its pushrod should be at its inner position (so total length is the minimum) without pushing on the diaphragm spring (you won't be able to push the diaphragm spring anyway with your hands to install the C clip in other case). If you don't have that you need to make adjustments to the pivot ball.Ģ) When installing an aftermarket flywheel and clutch disk you gotta be careful the tube that the bearing slides on does not hit the clutch disk when the gearbox is installed. This ensures that things will not seize up in there and you are not having any "default" force on the diaphragm spring when putting the gearbox in place. In other words the bearing has to have 2mm play between the diaphragm spring and its end position close to the gearbox. I am not sure if it helps, but here are some details i learned about clutch setups from Jonas () while installing my 765 setup.ġ) When the gearbox is in place but with no slave cylinder on, you should be able to move the clutchfork 2 mm back and forth (it is even better to look straight at the bearing going back and forth because this is where the 2mm movement you want to see is - the clutchfork has play so it may be confusing).
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